What is a Birthstone and How Were They Determined?
What is a Birthstone and How Were They Determined?
Meet George Frederick Kunz – the first American gemologist and Vice President of Tiffany & Co. in the early 20th century. He was also a very successful marketer (even though such a profession didn’t exist during his lifetime), whose task was to popularize colored gemstones.
Over 100 years ago, he introduced the idea of a “birthstone” – a gemstone that corresponds to your birth month, believed to bring you luck, protect you from illnesses, and enhance certain character traits.
And the idea worked! People started actively buying their “birthstones.”
The Story Goes Beyond Marketing
Firstly, the idea of a “birthstone” existed long before Kunz.
Secondly, George Kunz was genuinely passionate about colored gemstones and deeply studied their mystical properties. He believed in a strong connection between stones, astrology, and subtle energies. He conducted extensive research into the traditions and beliefs surrounding gemstones. The result of this research was his book The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, published in 1913.
However, it was Kunz who became the brilliant marketer that brought the idea of wearing a gemstone according to your birth month to the masses.
The Historical Connection Between Stones and Birth Months
The link between the energy of stones and a person’s time of birth has been studied for centuries.
The 1st-century historian Josephus believed there was a connection between the twelve stones in Aaron’s breastplate (representing the tribes of Israel, as described in the Book of Exodus), the twelve months of the year, and the twelve zodiac signs. Translations and interpretations of the Exodus passage about the breastplate vary greatly, with Josephus himself providing two different lists of the twelve stones. Furthermore, scholars still debate the exact identification of these twelve stones, as the original names are difficult to match with modern gem names.
In the 8th and 9th centuries, religious treatises linked certain stones to the apostles so that “their name might be inscribed on the Foundation Stones, and their virtue.” It became a practice to keep twelve stones and wear one each month. It was believed that the stone corresponding to the month would fully exhibit its healing or talismanic properties during that period.
If the year is shifted to begin in March, most medieval lists of birthstones align closely with the twelve Foundation Stones of the New Jerusalem, confirming the tradition’s origins in Christian sources.
However, the idea of wearing a stone corresponding to one’s birth month appeared much later. Kunz traces this custom to 18th-century Poland, while the Gemological Institute of America attributes its origin to Germany in the 1560s.
Modern Birthstone Lists and Their Evolution
Modern birthstone lists have little in common with Aaron’s breastplate or the Christian Foundation Stones. It can be confidently stated that all changes to the birthstone list made by various organizations in the 20th and 21st centuries were driven solely by the goal of increasing gemstone sales.
In 1912, to standardize birthstones, the American National Association of Jewelers (now Jewelers of America) met in Kansas and officially adopted a list. The Jewelry Industry Council of America updated the list in 1952 by adding Alexandrite for June, Citrine for November, and Pink Tourmaline for October. They also replaced December’s Lapis Lazuli with Zircon and swapped the primary/alternative stones for March.
Interestingly, Kunz himself was not thrilled with how quickly the Jewelers’ Association adopted his work on birthstones and established their own list in 1912th. Here’s what he had to say about the commercial approach to the mystical topic of birthstones:
“This consideration should be borne in mind in any attempt to assign certain stones to particular months or zodiacal signs. If we allow the spirit of commercialism to dictate the choice of such stones, in accordance with the passing interests of tradesmen, there is serious danger that the public will lose interest in them. Sentiment, true sentiment, is one of the best things in human nature. When it is overshadowed by fear, it may lead to pessimism with all the evils attendant upon that state of mind; but illumined by hope, it inspires humanity with optimism, a brighter outlook for the future, helping men to overcome the trials of life. Therefore, sentiment should not be disregarded, and nothing so quickly destroys it as the consciousness that it is being continually exploited for mercenary ends. For this reason, those who deal with the question of birthstones should do so with the greatest delicacy and caution.”
In 2002, the American Gem Trade Association added Tanzanite as a December birthstone, likely influenced by Tiffany & Co., which was actively investing in promoting Tanzanite at the time. In 2016, the American Gem Trade Association and Jewelers of America added Spinel as an additional birthstone for August. Britain’s National Association of Goldsmiths created its own standardized list of birthstones in 1937. In 2021, Japanese industry associations added ten new types of birthstones (morganite, opal, sphene, kunzite etc.).
Popular gemstones were actively added to the birthstone lists. The stones were also shuffled among the months to ensure that each month had both expensive and more affordable minerals, catering to all market segments.
The Role of Gemology and New Discoveries
Partly, the addition of new birthstones is justified by the development of gemology as a science, along with the discovery of new stones. Many of these “new” stones had been mined for centuries but were previously mistaken for other stones. For example, Spinel was often mistaken for Ruby in its red shades and for Sapphire in its blue shades. Furthermore, in ancient times, stones were distinguished mainly by color and relative hardness, so one name could encompass a group of different minerals with similar color and hardness.
The Influence of Indian Astrology on Gem Traditions
Currently, wearing stones based on Indian astrological traditions is gaining popularity in European countries. In Indian astrology (Jyotish), there is a well-developed centuries-old tradition of using stones to adjust a person’s character traits or influence events. Here, stones are indirectly tied to the birth date through planets. An astrologer, after creating a natal chart, determines which planets should be strengthened by wearing their corresponding stones.
Indian astrology also offers a universal option believed to suit everyone – the Navaratna, a set of nine stones corresponding to nine planets, worn as a ring or bracelet. This allows a person to evenly strengthen all the energies in their horoscope.
Should You Wear Your Birthstone?
Does this mean you shouldn’t wear a birthstone because it’s purely a marketing concept? No, it doesn’t. As our experience working with stones shows, they do influence both character traits and life events. However, you should certainly study the matter further and determine which stone suits you best. That’s why we’ve conducted extensive research on all birthstones, and in our articles, you’ll find much more information about birthstones according to various sources than the well-known chart from the American National Association of Jewelers.
Olga Bachurina,
Co-Founder of Venus in Libra,
Certified by GIA & Gübelin Academy
